Review 497: Port Dundas 1988 25 Year

portdundas198825yoToday I visited the newest appointed Ardbeg Embassy in The Netherlands, Slijterij Frans Muthert in Musselkanaal. Aeilke Muthert welcomed me warmly and straight away offers me a dram to taste. Before I knew it there where 3 glasses in front of me ofwich this Port Dundas was the first. I didn’t know that at the time as Aeilke always offers me samples to taste blindly, just to keep it fair.

What they write about it:

Clan Denny proudly holds specialist, rare and aged Single Grain Scotch Whiskies. As the distiller intended, it’s bottled at cask strength and without colouring or chill filtration, affording the Whisky a rich, oily quality that’s not unlike dessert wine. This particular Clan Denny expression is 25 Years Old, and from the now-closed Port Dundas Distillery just north of Glasgow.

Distillery:Port Dundas Distillery
Region:Lowlands
Location:Glasgow
Owner:Diageo
Founded:1790
Status:Closed (2009)
Water Source:Loch Katrine
Stills:3 Coffey stills
Capacity:39.000.000 Liter per year

Expression:Port Dundas 1988 25 Year
Category:Single Grain
Bottled by:Douglas Hamilton - The Clan Denny
Age:25 Year
ABV (% Alc):55.2%
Non-chill filtered:Yes
Natural colour:Yes
Phenols (smoke):+/- 0 ppm on barley
Distillation date:1988
Bottle date:+/- 2013/2014
Vintage:1988
Maturation:Refill Hogshead
Cask number:DH 10378
Bottle number:N/a
Bottle content:70cl

Colour:
Gold.

Smell:
A fresh, sweet, balanced and fizzy dram with aromas of cedar wood, solvent tones, subtle smokiness, earthy tones, apple peels, unripe pear, grains, floral tones (dried flowers), acacia honey, sawdust, cardboard, toffee, white pepper, vanilla, subtle spices, white chocolate, a subtle rubber tone (not unpleasant) and spicy oak.

Taste:
A full, powerful, sweet and somewhat savory whisky with aromas of subtle smoke, a hint of brine, smoked ham, licorice root, honey, ginger, maple syrup, grains, solvents, apple, grape seeds, dried flowers, stale tones, citrus, fresh wood shavings, vanilla cream, pepper, salted licorice, apple sauce, tannins, hint of mocha and creamy oak.

Finish:
A medium long and slightly drying finish with aromas of salty tones, subtle smoke, licorice root, honey, candied ginger, lemon zest, tannins, icing sugar and spicy oak.

Marks:
  • 8.3/10
    Smell: - 8.3/10
  • 7.9/10
    Taste: - 7.9/10
  • 7.9/10
    Finish: - 7.9/10
8/10

Conclusion:

Due to the smokey and savory character of this dram I wouldn’t have guessed this was a Port Dundas. This is not the typical sweet, fruity and berries I come to know (and love) from Port Dundas. But that said it’s a nicely balanced whisky that caries it’s age well on the nose but I wouldn’t have guessed the age on the palate. On the palate it’s young and vibrant (with some rough edges).
All in all a very pleasant surprise!